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DESIGN FOR THE ENVIRONMENT

Protecting our environment, and its present and future inhabitants, is the essential and vital goal of sustainability. This large and complex field looks at our marketplace, at the way we grow, make and consume products, and strives to incorporate an awareness of the impact of our choices at every stage of the process. There is no one "right" way to be environmentally responsible, but there are a growing number of intelligent choices and best practices.

The concept of sustainability combines concern for the well-being of our planet with the needs of continued human development. The World Commission on Environment and Development defines it as "meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs". When the design process is informed by this imperative, the central concern is to assess the consequences, both short and long-term, of any transformation of the environment. Design must also aim to eliminate waste, to use renewable energy, to reduce toxic emissions and to leave as light a "footprint" on the environment as possible.

How "green" is my fabric?

There is considerable debate on how best to describe and compare the environmental attributes of one textile versus another. Is the presence of toxic emissions that affect indoor air quality the primary issue? Some people believe that recycled or recyclable content is most important, or that natural fibers from renewable natural resources are best. Others feel strongly that the only thorough way to evaluate a product is to do a "Life Cycle Assessment", or LCA, a comprehensive examination of a product's environmental and economic impact throughout its entire lifetime, beginning with extraction of raw materials.

Whenever possible, the Pollack Studio creates fabrics that do not require additional backings or finishes to enhance performance. Many of our fabrics are woven in Europe, a leader in environmental legislation, where most of the mills maintain a high level of compliance with stringent regulations pertaining to pollution, waste management and noise reduction.

POLLACK  Green Design

We label a textile "green" if it meets one of the following criteria:

1) It contributes to LEED CI points by having content that is 90% recycled, 90% rapidly renewable or 90% Cradle to Cradle.

2) It meets or exceeds the "Compliant" level (minimum 23 points) of the proposed ACT Standard for Commercial Furnishings Fabric Sustainability Assessment.

1) LEED CI

The U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC) is the nation's foremost coalition of leaders from across the building industry, working to promote buildings that are both environmentally responsible and healthy places to live and work. In spring 2000, they launched LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Green Building Rating System®, a voluntary national standard for measuring and certifying "green" buildings and for training and professional accreditation of architects, designers and building industry practitioners. The number of LEED accredited professional has risen from 527 in 2001 to over 60,000 today.

Currently available, or under development, are the following LEED rating systems:

Commercial Interiors (CI)
New Construction (NC)
Existing Buildings (EB)
Homes (H)
Core and Shell (CS)
Neighborhood Developments (ND)

Each set of standards evaluates building performance in five areas, such as Indoor Environmental Quality and Materials & Resources, and awards points in each. Specific point totals determine if the project as a whole (not individual products) qualifies for basic certification, or for higher levels of silver, gold or platinum certification. LEED for Commercial Interiors (LEED CI) was introduced in 2004 and focuses on interiors. There are a total of 57 points, out of which textiles may contribute a possible 4 points.  www.leedbuilding.org, www.usgbc.org

LEED CI awards points as follows:

Materials & Resources (MR)
Credit MR 4.1: Recycled Content - 1 point
The sum of post-consumer + 1/2 pre-consumer recycled content is 10% of total value of materials on project.

Credit MR 4.2: Recycled Content – 1 point
The sum of post-consumer + 1/2 pre-consumer recycled content is 20% of total value of materials on project.

Credit MR 6.0: Rapidly Renewable Materials – 1 point
Materials that are typically harvested within a 10 year or shorter cycle is 5% of total value of materials on the project.

Indoor Environment Quality (EQ)
Credit EQ 4.5: Low-emitting Materials, Systems Furniture and Seating – 1 point
Systems furniture and task/guest seating must be Greenguard certified or ETV tested for VOC emissions.

Innovation & Design Process (ID)
Credit ID 1.1 Innovation in Design – 1 point
Recognizes Cradle to Cradle manufacturing protocols


Eligible material categories:

Recycled

100% Recycled Polyester: These fabrics, without any additional backings or chemical finishes, utilize post-consumer and post-industrial recycled polyester, and are themselves recyclable. The American mills that weave these designs have programs to minimize and recycle selvage waste and shipping materials, assess dye protocols and reduce energy use.

Terratex® is a brand of True, Inc., a US mill, and refers to fabrics that are made of 100% recycled, compostable or bio-based materials that are completely recyclable. True has completed an LCA for Terratex®-classified fabrics that shows them to have significantly less of an impact on the environment than fabrics made with virgin polyester. More recently, they have developed a Dye and Chemical Protocol to evaluate the safety of all the ingredients used in their manufacturing process. Their dedication to the principles of sustainability extends to all their business practices.  www.terratex.com

Rapidly Renewable

Materials that are typically harvested within a 10-year or shorter cycle. These natural fibers include cotton, sisal, flax, ramie, hemp, jute, wool, silk, mohair and bamboo.

Cradle to Cradle

Rather than working from the old industrial models of "Take-Make-Waste" or "Cradle to Grave", William McDonough, an American architect, and Michael Braungart, a German chemist, have defined a "new industrial revolution" based on the design principles of nature, where everything is designed to be a nutrient for another life form and where "Waste Equals Food". Their consultancy firm, McDonough Braungart Design Chemistry (MBDC), founded in 1995, believes the same can be accomplished in closed loop manufacturing systems. While maintaining that recycling is not enough - it is just "doing less bad" since recycled products still contain toxic chemicals - MBDC asserts that it is possible to design products that can become, at the end of their useful life, biological or technical nutrients in a sustaining "Cradle to Cradle" cycle, nutrients that are completely safe for human health and the environment.

designates a special fabric quality and manufacturing process developed by the Swiss mill Rohner Textil AG, following the principles of MBDC. The fiber content is 60% worsted wool and 40% viscose, a man-made cellulose fiber derived from renewable beech wood, which is integrated with an environmentally compatible flame retardant.

Climatex® fabrics are completely biodegradable and can therefore be returned to the earth as compost rather than landfill. To get to this end, every part of the manufacturing process has gone through a rigorous environmental protocol. With the cooperation of Ciba-Geigy, one of Europe's leading chemical companies, Rohner analyzed over 4,500 of their dye formulas; only the 16 that passed the MBDC protocol, with run-off safe enough to drink and to enter the water system, are used for these fabrics. Additionally, selvages and waste yarn are developed into secondary products, such as felt liners and insulation material, which take advantage of their inherent flame retardant benefits.  www.climatex.com, www.mbdc.com

2) ACT Standard - NSF 336 Commercial Furnishings Fabric Sustainability Assessment

ACT (Association for Contract Textiles) is working with NSF (National Safety Foundation) in developing an ANSI (American National Standards Institute) standard for assessing sustainability in commercial furnishings fabrics. This standard measures what a product is made of and how it is made, by analyzing the following factors:

Fiber Sourcing
Safety of Material
Water Conservation
Water Quality
Energy
Air Quality
Reduction, recycling, and reuse in manufacturing and end use
Social Accountability

The goal is to give the designer a clear way to compare products, and make selections based on the environmental criteria that are most important to them. The scope of the proposed standard is quite extensive, and requires the full participation and commitment of the contract textile industry and our manufacturing partners, the mills, dyers and spinners. The proposed standard is going through the vetting process now and may be ready for adoption in 2009.

An extensive GREEN GLOSSARY is available at www.contracttextiles.org.

pewter
Aberdeen
9109/05
pewter
spirit
Apparition
9073/01
spirit
crystal
Astrakhan
3016/04
crystal
pearl
Bamboo Crepe
4141/01
pearl
silver
Bedazzled
9113/01
silver
plum
Bergamo
7501/08
plum
dark taupe
Brushstroke Velvet
5074/04
dark taupe
mahogany
Bukhara
6039/05
mahogany
domino
Bull's Eye
2225/11
domino
sapphire
Cabochon
5060/09
sapphire
tusk
Cameo
2330/01
tusk
bronze
Charmed Circle
9065/02
bronze
bamboo
Chockablock
5030/02
bamboo
clear lake
Colorific
5048/25
clear lake
sapling
Contextural
4097/04
sapling
wood
Cotton Silk Canvas
6053/08
wood
grain
Curly
2243/01
grain
mod
Disc-o
2303/06
mod
thoroughbred
Downstream
4132/08
thoroughbred
soy
Edo
6036/06
soy
icy
Embassy
5063/06
icy
mahogany
Embellushed Plush
5046/07
mahogany
cinnamon
Enchantment
6012/04
cinnamon
sterling
Estate
6055/05
sterling
jade
Etched Silk
6028/06
jade
granite
Fez
7504/04
granite
pomme frite
Flanders
5064/10
pomme frite
pewter
Flaxen Satin
4142/09
pewter
raffia
Flaximum
4114/04
raffia
white tie
Formal Wear
9062/01
white tie
silken
Gift of Gab
4084/02
silken
chablis
Glamour
9161/02
chablis
poolside
Gleam
4108/15
poolside
lake
Harmony
2197/02
lake
spring fling
Heartstring
6042/03
spring fling
greige
Heathered Flannel
3021/03
greige
curry
Hedgerow
5066/05
curry
marmalade
High Jinks
2300/04
marmalade
daybreak
Highland Challis
9037/01
daybreak
tussah
Horizon
6004/01
tussah
snowball
Hullabahue
5043/01
snowball
sepia
Inscription
2319/06
sepia
moor
Interlace
5056/02
moor
piñata
Kaleidoscope
6046/05
piñata
sterling
Linen Boucle
4140/05
sterling
tapioca
Linen Veil
9121/05
tapioca
peat
Lodge
3018/06
peat
menswear
Longitude
1040/06
menswear
pecan
Lush Plush
5041/02
pecan
earthenware
Maestro
5017/08
earthenware
granite
Maze
2258/06
granite
rime
Monarch Mohair
5007/05
rime
blush
Moonstruck
9005/03
blush
gold
Mumbai
6029/03
gold
carbon
Musco
7517/14
carbon
sugar
Natural Selection
2289/01
sugar
reed
Nest
2329/02
reed
wild stallion
Oasis
4127/08
wild stallion
gunpowder
Odda
7509/03
gunpowder
taupe
Odense
7510/03
taupe
forest
Oracle
5053/03
forest
tamari
Osaka
5059/04
tamari
feldspar
Pebbly
4109/02
feldspar
whiskey
Persuasion
5049/05
whiskey
domino
Powder Puff
9132/01
domino
gold leaf
Pressed Leaves
6031/04
gold leaf
butternut
Pressed Linen
5038/05
butternut
surf
Primavera
2217/02
surf
mountain
Primavera Stripe
2218/04
mountain
beetroot
Rebound
4131/07
beetroot
pool
Reflection
2270/04
pool
sepia ink
Rewrite
2304/06
sepia ink
blush
Rose Matelasse
2340/03
blush
cream
Sailing Stripe
4095/01
cream
green gold
Savoir-Vivre
6008/03
green gold
ivy
Secret Garden
2104/02
ivy
gold rush
Serendipity
6045/05
gold rush
chrysanthemum
Silk Route
6047/05
chrysanthemum
fern
Silken Plush
5008/03
fern
peppercorn
Snap
2328/02
peppercorn
pineapple
Starbeam
6032/03
pineapple
mica
Starlight Velvet
5061/01
mica
dawn
Stellar
9125/02
dawn
India ink
Sumatra
2291/09
India ink
feldspar
Texturecise
4090/02
feldspar
vanilla
Toulouse
7514/02
vanilla
ash
Tranquility
6023/02
ash
chocolate mousse
Traveler
3020/08
chocolate mousse
brown sugar
Viceroy Velvet
5022/04
brown sugar
white lace
Vignette
9028/01
white lace
vellum
Vinery Finery
9061/01
vellum
tortoise shell
Watermark
9078/02
tortoise shell
rhododendron
Wellfleet
4129/16
rhododendron
fleece
Wool Homespun
3022/01
fleece
   

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